Table Saw Blog
New Blog TableSaw.in
I started a new blog Table Sawin', where you will find information about setting up and maintaining a table saw. Originally I had planned to make it part of my site here, but I thought I would try blogger and see how it rates. Using the blogger platform will simply the webmaster activities I need to perform and also make sure there is ample bandwidth for the site during peak times. The plan is to use all google and free tools for the Table Sawin' site. I am already impressed with the widgets I can add to blogger and should be able to accomplish everything I want with them. If you own a table saw or would like to own one go check out Table Sawin'!
Cleaning the table insert
The first time I removed the table insert it stuck and I had to gently tap it out. Before putting it back I cleaned the edges and scraped off the paint and caked on saw dust that had accumulated. Again I had a tool for cleaning and removing gaskets that worked perfectly. A slightly dull knife would just as well. The key is to not nick the edges of the cast iron table top.
Checking the Pulley
I checked the roundness of the pulley by sighting cross axis and watching the profile relative to an object further behind. Any movement indicates there is a problem. I use two methods to confirm that it is the pulley and not me being unsteady. The first is to rotate the shaft slowly while watching the profile to see if it wanders. The second is to spin the shaft quickly and note the sharpness of the edge. If the edge becomes fuzzy that means the profile is not staying in the same spot.
Pulley
The pulley on the blade side appeared to be out of round. While turning it slowly I could see the profile wandering. My suspicions were further confirmed when I turned the saw on and watched the belt bounce and shake the whole table saw. After a quick search on Amazon I found a replacement of the same dimensions and material and ordered it. At the same time I also ordered a new belt. The damage was less than twenty-five dollars with shipping.
The Main Bearing
After I removed the blade I took the opportunity to check how true the main bearing was. Even after so many years there is no looseness or grinding. Since these bearings are sealed there isn't much I can do as far as maintenance. The threads are solid and without nicks.
How to remove the table saw blade
Removing the blade on a table saw is one of the most routine actions I perform during a project. It is important to use the correct blade for the task. If I am cross cutting, ripping or using the dado I make sure the correct blade is installed and adjusted.
It usually takes me a few minutes to safely remove a table saw blade. It is important to not rush these steps. Always make sure the saw is unplugged.
- First unplug the table saw and make sure you can see the plug while you work.
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Second remove the table top cover that surrounds the blade and prevents small pieces from falling through the table.
- Third place a scrap piece of wood through the table so that it catches the teeth of the blade. This is so that the blade doesn't accidentally spin while you are using the wrench.
- Fourth use a wrench to loosen the bolt that holds the blade on. The trick with this bolt is that it is not "righty tighty, loosy lefty", so make sure to loosen it in the opposite direction as you normally would.
- Finally remove the bolt and washer from the saw blade and then carefully slip the blade off.
It usually takes me a few minutes to safely remove a table saw blade. It is important to not rush these steps. Always make sure the saw is unplugged.
The One Table Saw Rule: Only wood goes on the table top!
Unfortunately not everyone follows the rule that only boards to be cut go on the table saw surface. The table saw I purchased has clearly been used as a coffee table coaster and painter's booth. The beverages must not have sat for long because the rust is only surface deep and will polish out with some steal wool. The paint and glue stains will need to be scraped with a soft metal tool. In my tool set I have a tool that looks like a wide headed flat screw driver. I picked it up at Sears for scraping away the remainder of a head gasket. This tool works great on the cast iron because it was designed so it wouldn't scratch aluminum. With patience and careful motions I cleaned away the stains and polished out the scratches. Some discoloration remains, but the surface is smooth so there will not be friction between the table top and the boards being cut.
Craigslist Powermatic Table Saw
Purchased my first table saw. When I left Minnesota the table saw stayed in my dad's garage, it is his after all. After three months of living in an old house I reached the breaking point and started searching for table saws on craigslist. Many of the saws listed were cheap aluminium contractor saws. The contractor saw is great for trimming siding and fences, but can't keep an edge straight enough for furniture. I need a solid table saw, but at the same time I can't justify spending the five thousand or more dollars required for a furniture grade saw. The compromise I found is an old artisan saw from Powermatic, a model 63. My dad has the model 64 and I built the kitchen cabinets in his house with it. Its cast iron, heavy and runs on 110 volts 20 amps, which is the most power I can reliably supply without rewiring. (since I am renting, rewiring isn't an option.) The other nice feature is that unlike the contractor saws it has a wide table top that will support a full sheet of plywood, and allow for wide panel cuts.
I knew exactly what I was purchasing when I contacted the seller on craigslist, so I did not hesitate. It is a heavy cast iron saw that spins true. Honestly, if the blade had wobbled a little I still would have purchased it and replaced the main bearings and shafts. The value of a saw like this is in the square iron frame. Once I clean up the rust spots on the table top and make sure all the moving parts are clean and lubricated this saw will cut true for a long time.
